Three Peaks Race – Final Leg

At 10.49 on Wednesday morning Jo and Lowri ran over the finish line and straight into the arms of our sailing team and the history books of the Three Peaks Yacht Race.  We have won, line honours, overall sailing on handicap, leg three sailing and running combined and would end up second overall on sailing and running combined. We are only the fourth ever female team to finish the race and the first to win.  The final leg from Whitehaven had allowed us to shine, but was not without it’s drama and soul destroying moments.

During Monday afternoon our runners Jo and Lowri, battled their way around the biking and running course from Whitehaven, to the top of Scarfell pike and back while we the sailors slept, organised and fretted back on Nunatak in Whitehaven marina.  We had positioned the boat in a prime berth, right opposite the marina entrance where the lock gates were on free flow, and waited for their return with nervous anticipation.

The girls appeared at the top of the ramp, covered in bruises and blood from multiple tumbles while running on the slippery paths of the lake districts highest peak, our shore crew waited on the corner of the pontoon to direct them, the film crews set up to capture their return and Elin shouted to a group of sailors to clear the way –all eyes were on the runners for a dramatic entrance. Lowri led the way, the cameras were rolling, she came down the ramp, onto the main pontoon and tried to turn the corner up to the boat but her cycling shoes with cleats on the bottom and no grip gave way and she promptly slid over in a heap on the floor.  Jo, not far behind, saw what happened and tried to avoid the same spot but left it too late and wiped out on the same corner, leaving both of them in a pile – a very helpful gentleman watching proceedings from his cockpit, sniffed and loudly conjectured, ‘And that’s why we don’t run on the pontoons!’ Such helpful comments.

With the runners safely on board, ego’s intact we headed straight out through the open lock gates.  We were in fourth position, with a distance of 6 miles between us and the lead boat Wight Rose to catch up the front of the fleet.

The evening was murky and started with light winds, we were chasing the other boats, but with little opportunity to make gains. After a couple of hours the wind started to change direction and soon we were reaching for our spinnaker and Nunatak started racing towards the Mull of Galloway.  Down below the runners were tucked into their bunks, kick starting their recovery from the previous 9.5 hours of effort, and as the speed built they were woken up with the sound of water rushing down Nunatak’s hull, and the occasional squawk of delight from the helm as we started clocking speeds of over 13 knots over the ground.

We approached the Mull of Galloway under spinnaker and with the three of us trimming the boat as hard as we could, Nikki on the helm, Elin managing the pole and me trimming and navigating.  By now we could see the outline of Pure Attitude and knew they did not have their spinnaker up, we were gaining on them fast and decided to pass between them and the shore, right under the cliffs of the mull.

The cockpit was alive with tension as we scraped our way along the shore to keep out of the tide, the wind was blowing down through the gaps in the cliffs, heeling the boat over suddenly and rounding us up, requiring great team work from the three of us to keep moving and to keep safe.  We worked intensely for three or four hours, constantly talking to each other about course, trim, speed – focussed, determined and loving the opportunity to sail hard together.

The strategy paid off and by the time the sun came up on Tuesday morning we were leading the fleet.  Wight Rose and Moby J were over 6 miles behind us and Pure Attitude could be seen on the horizon. But as is the way with sailing among the hills in the Scottish Highlands, not long after the sun came up we sailed into a massive windless hole and sat there helplessly while Pure Attitude sailed up behind us.

Our rowing seats and outriggers had been taken apart and stowed for the spinnaker leg and getting them out of the locker and in position seemed to take for ever – it was stressful as all the while our competitors were effortlessly sailing up to us.  I fumbled with the screws and bolts, put the struts on in the wrong order and couldn’t get them off again, I wanted to swear but the on board camera woman was filming my frustration – these things seem so cruel, after putting in such a lot of effort to get ahead.

The next couple of hours were spent rowing between wind holes, we adopted the mantra – ‘just keep the boat moving’ – in recognition of the fact that we could row Nunatak at a reasonable 1.5knots once she had momentum but trying to get any speed from a standing start was very hard.  The three sailors rotated round, taking it in turns to row on each side and to steer.  The sails stayed set and we rowed to where we could see wind on the water, when we started to sail we shipped the oars but stayed in position and as soon as the speed dropped below 2 knots we would start rowing again.  I was starting to develop blisters on my palms from the rough wooden oar handles, Nikki and Elin’s backs were hurting, but we rowed on determined to keep our lead.  The runners woke up with the commotion on deck and came up to offer help – we were still pretty adamant we did not want them to jeopardise their recovery by rowing a lot but Jo helmed and Lowri did a couple of stints rowing so we could eat or drink or strip off a few layers.

Eventually our diligence paid off – we rowed to a solid breeze and ghosted away, watching our rivals lolling behind.  The experience had been unnerving so we left the rowing seats on deck but the wind built enough for a quick ride past the Mull of Kintyre and into the Sound of Jura.

Following another few hours of playing cat and mouse with the wind, always terrified we would park up in a hole while our rivals slid past in wind not far away – we had at one stage hoisted Nikki up the mast to survey the route ahead looking for calm patches on the water – we finally found a solid breeze and started moving again up the sound.

By this time the tide was against us and so we needed to hug the edges of the loch to get out of the tide and make better progress. By now it was a sunny day and the runners –  who had been nicknamed ‘The Meer cats’ as they only normally stuck their heads out of the hatch to look around before going back to their bunks to continue recovery – came out on deck and we worked Nunatak up the Jura shore.  Again we sailed like a fully crewed boat, tacking in and out of a 100m band from the shore, sometimes coming within a few metres of the rocks before tacking out, then heading back in as soon as we saw a drop in our speed over ground.

We tacked around 100 times over that afternoon and evening, our course on the tracker looks like a smooth line heading exactly North and gives no indication to the amount of effort expended to achieve it.

It is hard not to give a blow by blow account of the following 12 hours, I can remember pretty much every tack – we worked our way between rocks and islands, the wind increased to create fairly rough conditions at the beginning of the night and for the first time in the race we had waves crashing over the deck.  We had managed to work our way ahead of Pure Attitude but did not stop trying to gain every knot of speed we could to increase the lead and give our runners a great head start.  They lay down below in their bunks, listening to us working, starting to feel the tension as we drew closer and closer to Fort William – soon it would be their turn.

We came through the Corin narrows with a two hour lead; the cloud cleared from the top of Ben Nevis and we could see the steep ascent speckled with patches of snow. It looked formidable – neither one of the runners could eat as they prepared for their last summit meanwhile on deck we fought for every second of advantage we could gain.

With only a couple of miles to go and in flatter water we had one further  drama to navigate which could still cost us significant time between the finish and dropping the runners.  During the night while charging the engine had stopped.  We had very little fuel and were heeled over and managed to suck air into the fuel system. Half way up the channel we decided to try and bleed the engine and do a test start in neutral to see if we could get it going again, if that did not work we would need to pump up the tender and row the runners ashore which would take a lot of preparation.  While Elin and Nikki tacked their way up the shallows off Fort William I had my head inside the engine bay, trying to brace myself against the heel of the boat and frantically working the fuel lift pump. It took a couple of goes but we managed to bleed all of the air out of the engine, and we hit the finish line then raced towards the dock at the entrance to the Caledonian Canal.

Chris our shore crew was waiting on the dock to catch our lines, we came in with speed and our runners jumped off, all of us feeling sick with nerves.  We had smashed it – the sailing leg was won and the coveted line honours trophy which has been the goal of many a great sailor and adventurer since 1977 was within our grasp.

Jo and Lowri set off up the mountain in worsening conditions, it was cold and raining, the wind was building, we could no longer see the summit and the cloud was hanging low everywhere.  We were elated, to have finished the sailing first but feeling agitated and powerless to do anything further as it was all down to our runners.  So once we had secured Nunatak inside the lock we all jumped in a couple of cars to go and wait on the Ben Nevis foothills.

It was raining and cold on the mountain – there were camera crews dotted up the track waiting for the girls to come past. We split up, some of us climbing up the path, some waiting further down and as soon as the yellow bibs of our runners came into sight we started to cheer.  They looked great, smiling and confident; they had seen the crew of Pure Attitude coming up as they were coming down and were happy they had a good lead.  We ran with them down the final section, chatting and laughing and telling them how amazing we thought they were.

Our second shore support Mike, who was the previous owner of Nunatak and has competed in the Three Peaks Race multiple times was with us and said the last few miles from the foothills back to the lock are tough and sole destroying. They are on roads, through industrial and housing estates, a lonely section of run – so Nikki and I drove with Mike to meet the girls on every corner we could to cheer them on.  It was great for us to see them smiling, and to feel like we were in some way taking some of the pain.  Elin and Chris went ahead to set up at the finish so we had all bases covered.

Jo and Lowri crossed the line, smiling and victorious. We had a group hug which ruined the camera mans finishing photo’s and cracked open the Champaign.  We had achieved what we turned up to do – winning line honours, but not only that we had won the sailing part of the race overall on handicap, and won leg three conclusively on sailing and running combined.  The runners from Pure Attitude put in a phenomenal run and managed to put their team 39 mins ahead of us on corrected sailing and running time combined to win the IRC trophy, for which we dropped into second place.

When Elin suggested the Three peaks race to me earlier this year I jumped at the chance to sail with her and to race this epic course again.  When she showed me her suggested line up for the crew my stomach did flips, I knew we would be competitive.

The race has been an exceptional one and one of the best experiences of my sailing life. I have shared five days of hard physical and mental pressure with four of the most talented, strong and wonderful women I have ever met in my life.  As a team we were hand-picked by Elin, who knew us all but we did not know each other.  We all met for the first time less than two days before the start of the race – we had never practiced sailing Nunatak together before the start gun went, Jo and Lowri first ran together the day before the race.  However, from the moment we met we were a team, we understood what was required of us as individuals and how best to work together. We supported and encouraged each other, were honest, took criticism, endured pain, sleep deprivation and physical discomfort because it was for the good of the team and all the while we laughed.

We were diligently and wonderfully supported by our shore team, Chris Frost and Mike and Pam Jacques, whose attention to detail did not waver and made transitions easy to handle allowing the sailing team to eat and sleep knowing our runners were well supported on the mountains.

The fact that we are all women really should not and did not make a difference to our result.  Every one of the crew of Team Aparito Digital Health is a serious athlete and when we line up on the start of any event we chose to take part in, it is on equal and respectful terms to everyone else there regardless of gender. When we came to the start of the Three Peaks Race we brought with us a wealth of experience from years of competing in multiple and diverse endurance events. Endurance sports require mental toughness as much as physical strength, this is never more highlighted than in the field of ultra-marathon running and short-handed offshore racing. We have taken on one of Britain’s toughest adventure races and proved that gender is not a factor in winning – you need to train hard, be well prepared, work as a team and never ever stop trying to do better.

Of course I would like to say a massive thank you to all of our supporters – Aparito Digital Health for their headline sponsorship, Sub Zero, Keela, and Spindrift for not only providing fantastic kit for the race but also cheering us on all the way around. Primal pantry and mountain house also provided us with food.  However the biggest thanks of all needs to go to Chris Frost who quite simply we would not have been able to do the race without.  Chris allowed us to use his boat, prepared it for us, delivered it to the start, and then followed us up the coast, never losing and opportunity to cheer us on from the shore or provide some sort of support. He and Mike even came out in a boat to shadow us up the shores of Jura.

The documentary following this year’s Three Peaks race, and featuring our team including on board footage will be available on SC4 in Welsh language as a three part series in July and then a one hour English language version will appear on channel 4 later in the year

 

 

 

 

 

 

Three peaks race legs one and two

I wake up with a start, dehydrated, hot, and confused – ‘Where are the runners? What time is it? Have I over slept?’ Reaching for the phone tucked under my makeshift pillow, I log onto the tracker – it’s fine, the girls have summited Scarfell pike and are in a strong 3rd position – no panic, they should be back to the boat in around four hours.

This has been the first sleep over one hour that any of the sailing crew have had since we left Caernafon yesterday morning – every one of our five crew is being pushed to the absolute limits of endurance.

Since leaving the start line in Barmouth on Saturday we have been plagued by light winds over the whole course.  The leg to Caernafon took nine hours and ended up with an exciting hour as we crossed the bar into the river at midnight, in the dark, racing down the tiny channel, piloting from buoy to buoy at 10 knots over the ground and around 100m behind the boat in second, my stomach was in knots.  We dropped the runners, just as it was getting dark and they ran off to summit Snowdon while we dropped anchor and readied the boat for leg 2.

The running has been tight, competition on the mountain is hot, but our athletes Jo and Lowri have been holding an incredible pace and right now are on their way down from Scarfell pike in third position.  They completed Snowden in 4hr 54 mins, and to put that in perspective it was in the dark, running from the pier to the summit and a distance of over marathon length.

We started leg 2 in 7th position but with only 40 mins separating us and the first placed boat; the course is to sail from Caernafon to Whitehaven via any route chosen.  The whole fleet bar one, chose the shorter distance, to sail through the Menai straits and we were treated to a light wind tussle, against a strong tide, all the way to the Britannia bridge.  We approached the Swelllies with no wind at all and had to navigate this notorious section of water under oars and yet again had my heart was in my mouth as we rowed across an ever building tide dodging rocks.

At the beginning of this race, the team agreed that for the first two legs the runners would do nothing but rest and run – our sailing team made up of myself, Nikki and Elin would take all of the strain, sailing, rowing and organising the boat to ensure we gave the best possible chance for our runners to perform.

The sailing team managed 1.5 hours sleep at Caernafon and since then – we have been on it for 30 hours with only 1 or 2 hours sleep each.  The lighter winds have persisted the whole leg and our J120 Nunatak has required constant attention to keep moving through the water.

Yesterday we rowed and epic 6 miles from the Swellies to the end of the Menai straits, taking it in 20 min shifts on the oars and desperately trying to get out of the channel before the tide turned again. We managed to pull up to third place on leaving the Straits and sailed out into Liverpool Bay and a big flat expanse of no wind.  For the remaining 80 miles we have been coaxing every ounce of speed out of the boat, changing sails frequently to accommodate the slightest change in wind angle, constantly adjusting settings as the breeze built and dropped off again.  As soon as we got on a roll, things would change never allowing any time to turn off and just sail.

Through yesterday we managed to climb up to a decent first place and then fell back to third as the breeze died inshore in the early hours of the morning.  With 7 miles to the finish we were once again becalmed with the rest of the fleet in sight on the horizon and it was time to row.  After 30 hours of sailing and no sleep we dug in to row the final three hours of the race, determined to keep our third position and make it in through the lock gates before the tide made access impossible.

I just woke up from a three hour sleep. Nikki and Elin woke up at exactly the same time, we have had an update from the runners and they will be back on board in around three hours.  We can’t sleep anymore, the tension is enormous, and they are holding a great pace but have been overtaken by a couple of the other teams who have incredibly strong athletes.

The leg ahead will be tough; more light winds with challenging geography and tides, we estimate the first boat will have a three hour lead on us but we are still very much in the game.  The sailing team need to catch the lead boat and then double that lead to keep our girls ahead on the Ben.  We have tidied and checked every inch of the boat, discussed our planning and are now pacing around with lots of nervous energy, willing the running team on.  By the time they return they will have cycled from Whitehaven into the heart of the Lake District, run up Scarfell pike and then cycled back to us.  I am suffering from the strangest of feelings, watching our team on a tracker, willing them on, desperately wanting to do something to improve their performance and totally unable.  Although we had never all met before the start of this race we could not have gelled better – I have total respect for every member of Team Aparito, there are no passengers, there are no egos we are a team of athletes working together, pushing each other to the limits of endurance and it is a great feeling.

This race is far from over, there will only be hours separating us from the following teams as we head for Fort William and I know the conditions ahead will be changeable providing multiple opportunities for others to get ahead if we make a wrong decision.

 

Three Peaks Yacht Race – Start day

Team Aparito have finally all sat down at the same table less than 24hrs before the start of the three peaks race.  We are all a bunch of very busy women – our team captain Elin Haf Davies, has her profile in ‘Wired’ magazine today , Jo Jackson has flown halfway round the world – but we have put our lives on hold to spend the next five days together competing in the epic Three Peaks Yacht Race.

The common link that runs through our team is our Captain Elin, we were hand-picked by her at the beginning of the year, and yesterday was the very first time we all actually physically sat down in the same place and talked racing.  I have sailed with Elin once in 2012, but we have been rubbing shoulders at sailing events since then, always saying we should sail together again and finally we have the chance.

The Three Peaks Yacht Race flies oddly under the radar of sailing events in the UK, having competed in the event before I don’t understand why; the sailing is about as challenging as it gets and we will take in some of the most spectacular coast line Britain has to offer.

This year there are 17 teams competing some newbies, some old hands and the last couple of days the water taxi’s have been kept busy ferrying, people kit and tools out to boats moored in the middle of the river for last minute preparations.

Most attention this year seems to be on the rowing rigs; the Three Peaks Yacht Race one of only two races in the UK where the competitors are allowed to row the boats if the wish (the other is 2 handed round Britain and Ireland – also epic) and at the beginning of this week the forecast was so bad I was trying to work out how long it would take to row the entire race.

The race starts today at 1400 and you can find our tracker here.  We will sail from Barmouth, to Caenarfon, over the bar following the tiny channel probably in the dark, sailing all the way into the river until we are allowed engines on at the Mussel bank buoy.  We then must motor to the Caenarfon pier where we are briefly allowed alongside to deposit the runners who must then summit Snowden – in the dark.

Sailors may anchor in the vicinity of the pier to catch up on a small amount of sleep of prepare for the next leg.  When the runners are back we will be picking them up and charging up the Menai straits to try and make it through the Swellies before the tide locks up out.  Meanwhile runners should be straight into sleeping bags as short leg to Whitehaven will be their shortest recovery time for the whole race.

The two navigational challenges of the Swellies and Caernafon bar are not to be taken lightly, competitors regularly hit the bar and with the tide peaking at 8 or 9 knots through the Swellies, and channels between rocks that narrow to 100m in places, this is no ordinary place to race.

I need big thanks to Charlie and John at Plas Menai who very kindly set me up with some expert local knowledge about navigating this stretch – Though this is my second time in this race and I have done it before, I have a healthy respect for this stretch of water and local knowledge is everything.

In our first sit down yesterday we really seemed to gel as a team – it didn’t feel like anyone was vying to be on top, we are all focussed on making our best performance in this race and there is a great amount of mutual respect across the team, the list of accomplishments that sits behind each member of our team is equally impressive, we have taken on oceans, deserts and the artic in every manner you can imagine, and we all just come back for more. Check out my previous blog to read about the accomplishments of our team. We do have one man on the team, our shore crew Chris who will be matching our progress up the coast, providing support to our runners at each of the stops and allowing us to swap gear, load on extra food if we need it and make any repairs while the runners are ashore.  This morning we will meet our on board camera woman, who we are carrying for the duration of the race, to film for a documentary which will be shown on channel 4 and SC4 later in the year.

There is no wind out in the river right now; the tide is sloshing past the hull of the boat and the surface of the water is silky smooth.  If you were wondering I calculated once moving we could row our J120 Nunatak at around 2.5 knots so estimated the course time under oars would be around six days…. But let’s hope it doesn’t get to that.

Follow our race on the tracker.